Modeling noob in need of help

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haven9270
Posts: 4
Joined: Mon Nov 12, 2007 10:47 pm

Modeling noob in need of help

Greetings MAHQ,

I'm new at this forums.

I used to build those first grade kits (Gundam X and Wing) back in high school. They're bootlegs (BENDI!) and they suck, but I had to bear with them since that was what was only available for me to purchase at the time. And now, with the power of the internets, I decided I would go to the next level.

I just recently (well more like a few months ago) found out that there are "advance techniques" involved in this hobby. From weathering, to painting, panel lines.... I realized that I've been missing a lot of good stuff that makes model kits more than just "snap them together and that's all there is to it".

Not too long ago, I got myself a Master Grade RX-78-2 Ver.Ka kit along with the extra decals and Gundam Basic Markers. Problem is, they are still brand new to this day as I hesitate to start building the damn kit.

Now I've decided that I may give it a shot.

So, as mentioned, I currently have the kit, the markers (along with the marker remover), and the extra decals. What I want to do is to finish building this kit without worrying too much about advance techniques, but I don't want the final product to look too much like a plastic toy either.

So I'd like to hear some tips from you guys who have more experience than yours truly.

1> Sanding - I've made a post about this in another thread. There I asked if I have to keep sanding until all the scratch marks disappear, or if it was supposed to be that way and I have to apply some kind of wax or whatever.

2> I've read on some website that using Gundam Markers for panel lines make lines that are too wide. Is this a bad thing? What are your recommended alternatives?

3> Before I start using them, what are Gundam Markers and what makes them different from the one you buy at Staples? Also, what are weathering markers? Do you have any tips on to what extent I could use them?

4> Overall, I'm a noob who wants his first "serious model" to look decent despite my current level of skill.

Thanks a lot guys^^
lazidude999
Posts: 168
Joined: Fri Aug 31, 2007 10:09 pm

Re: Modeling noob in need of help

haven9270 wrote: 1> Sanding - I've made a post about this in another thread. There I asked if I have to keep sanding until all the scratch marks disappear, or if it was supposed to be that way and I have to apply some kind of wax or whatever.

2> I've read on some website that using Gundam Markers for panel lines make lines that are too wide. Is this a bad thing? What are your recommended alternatives?

3> Before I start using them, what are Gundam Markers and what makes them different from the one you buy at Staples? Also, what are weathering markers? Do you have any tips on to what extent I could use them?

4> Overall, I'm a noob who wants his first "serious model" to look decent despite my current level of skill.

Thanks a lot guys^^
1. i dont know much about this either, there is a sanding topic already.
2. I think gundam markers ( the thin types) are good for panel lining
3. Gundam markers are water base, but the stick to plastic better and are more like paint than the sharpes at staples
4. Don't worry, we all start somewhere. Its best to start modeling with cheaper models though like 1/144 HGs or 1/100 HGs/NGs since they are cheaper. In fact, even FGs are better to practice panel lining.
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Ascension
Posts: 1474
Joined: Wed May 31, 2006 11:50 pm

One thing to note... if you decide to airbrush/spraypaint the kit, make sure you know what you're doing before you start. I have an unfinished MG GM that I practically ruined with a terrible airbrush job. While I plan to use the lessons it taught me to do a more respectable job on the four unassembled kits I still have in my room at home, they're all HGs. I wish I had started there instead of with the GM... :?

I'm going to be experimenting with camo on my Dom Tropen. That should be fun. If it turns out alright, I'll post pics.
Don't call it a comeback...
...in fact, it's best if you forget I was ever here before.
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haven9270
Posts: 4
Joined: Mon Nov 12, 2007 10:47 pm

Thanks guys.

Also, there's the decals.

I've read the tutorial from the links provided and there are a few details I never quite understood like....


"....the decal will easily slide around on the decal backing...."


What does this mean (limited English here....)?
What's the "decal backing"?

I've never applied decals before, but from the pictures that I'm seeing, they look way better than stickers^^

PS: I don't want my model to be glossy.... do I have to apply that gloss coat thingy to make the decal stick?

Thanks again for the help!
Will post photos when done^^
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Kurando
Posts: 146
Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 1:28 pm

haven9270 wrote:Thanks guys.

Also, there's the decals.

I've read the tutorial from the links provided and there are a few details I never quite understood like....


"....the decal will easily slide around on the decal backing...."


What does this mean (limited English here....)?
What's the "decal backing"?

I've never applied decals before, but from the pictures that I'm seeing, they look way better than stickers^^

PS: I don't want my model to be glossy.... do I have to apply that gloss coat thingy to make the decal stick?

Thanks again for the help!
Will post photos when done^^
The gloss coat helps the decals stick and harden so they are reccomended

There are 2 types of decals

water slides- these are the ones your talking about. when you wet them and slide them onto the part and apply the glossy stuff then

sticker decals- you cut out the decal (DON'T try to take it off like a sticker! cut the whole peice off!) put it where you want the decal to stick. get some sticky tape to hold down the decal and use a penny or coin and rub the peice. The decal should come of the peice of paper and stick to the part if done right
James E. 'ZEE' Doyle
Posts: 310
Joined: Fri May 05, 2006 4:56 am

Actually, what you describe as sticker decals are called dry-transfer markings. Peel-and-stick markings are a third category.

My actual use of dry-transfers has been limited, but I'd think they would adhere better to a non-glossy surface (as opposed to waterslides, which do work better on smooth surfaces)
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Compass
Posts: 1054
Joined: Sat Mar 24, 2007 1:29 pm

Since you're new at lining, here's my reccomendation:

http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/3586 ... 001ld0.jpg

Vis-a-vis wet-erase marker. Just take a black one, cover the lines, and then wipe away with a moist, not soaking wet, tissue. You can clean up the area before it dries by using your fingers, too. Best part is, if you mess up, all you need to do is take a wet tissue and wipe the area down, and it'll come right off. Downside is, that they aren't water-proof, so you can't do it until after painting, if you plan on doing so.
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haven9270
Posts: 4
Joined: Mon Nov 12, 2007 10:47 pm

That looks so cool!

Where can I get those vis-a-vis marker thingies?
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Compass
Posts: 1054
Joined: Sat Mar 24, 2007 1:29 pm

Office Depot, Staples, etc. Just go look for "overhead markers" or "wet-erase markers." Do not get dry-erase markers!!! O_o
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