what's the best putty to use?

["Kamille! Kamille!]

going to pick some up tomorrow. the store owner's a real traditional American car modeler and if I ever mentioned to him that I wasn't building American car models he'd probably take after me with a hobby knife in one hand and a boxcutter in the other. So I ask you guys.

(I mean for Gunpla, obviously.)

And no Epoxy, I don't want to die.

[SNT1]

I've used Squadron, Modelmasters Red Putty and Tamiya, and I like Tamiya the best. Seems the first two mentioned chips off rather easily...

This is basic putty of course, Only Epoxy I've used is Tamiya (so I guess I can say its the best Epoxy I've used...) and hadnt tried the Polyester and other stuff...

["Kamille! Kamille!]

I've used Squadron, Modelmasters Red Putty and Tamiya, and I like Tamiya the best. Seems the first two mentioned chips off rather easily...

This is basic putty of course, Only Epoxy I've used is Tamiya (so I guess I can say its the best Epoxy I've used...) and hadnt tried the Polyester and other stuff...

Thanks.

I changed the OP after reading your post to include that i don't want epoxy putty.

I have to prime it before I paint it, right? Also, is it better to apply with an old brush I don't want or a knife of some sort? How long does it take to dry?

[SNT1]

-I always prime after puttying, but haven't done painting without priming, so I wouldn't really know. (I think I've said this before), I am not a smooth sanding guy so I'll take the matte surfacing job the primer gives. take that for what it's worth...

-I use toothpicks to apply

-I wouldn't know the limits on how fast a putty would dry, but I always wait 4-6 hours, sometimes half a day., just to avoid possible goof-off and reapplication (if the putty does not dry fast enough)

["Kamille! Kamille!]

I am not a smooth sanding guy so I'll take the matte surfacing job the primer gives. take that for what it's worth...\

You're talking about sanding down the putty after you apply it?

I usually use a nail file (the board type, not the metal type on the clipper). Am I screwed?

[SNT1]

well, yeah, you have to sand the putty, since it has the consistency of a little-harder-than-usual toothpaste out of the tube and hardens like a rock a few hours after the application). so pretty much:

-apply the thingy into the seam/hole/whatever (and if its a seam line, it had better be glued)
-wait a few hours
-sand it down to make it uniform (when it's hard)
-(optional) Spray the primer down on the surface to hide sanding imperfections/blemishes

I usually use a nail file (the board type, not the metal type on the clipper). Am I screwed?

nope

["Kamille! Kamille!]

well, yeah, you have to sand the putty, since it has the consistency of a little-harder-than-usual toothpaste out of the tube and hardens like a rock a few hours after the application). so pretty much:

-apply the thingy into the seam/hole/whatever (and if its a seam line, it had better be glued)
-wait a few hours
-sand it down to make it uniform (when it's hard)
-(optional) Spray the primer down on the surface to hide sanding imperfections/blemishes

glue the seam line first then apply putty? if i'm using putty, that means it's too big to glue with plastruct... ? [/retard]

I usually use a nail file (the board type, not the metal type on the clipper). Am I screwed?

nope[/quote]

goody

[SNT1]

glue the seam line first then apply putty? if i'm using putty, that means it's too big to glue with plastruct... ? [/retard]

yeah, its pretty much necessary to glue it first. If you just went straight for the puttying and did the mentioned steps, handling the part just a little will crack the putty job extremely easily.

Ulnhyrr has a good glue tutorial for seam lines http://www.gamerabaenre.com/seamlines.htm and I find that putty is only needed when the seam is still showing up after I sanded the part.

So to extend the steps that I use:

-Follow Ulnhyrr's steps
-Use the putty steps that I posted earlier if seams still show up

[bluemax151]

I generally use greenstuff.