What can I use instead of Gundam Marker for panel lines?
- "Kamille! Kamille!
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What can I use instead of Gundam Marker for panel lines?
The question is self-explanatory. I can't buy Gundam Markers without ordering them online and mine's running out. Specific brands would be great.
Rotring Rapiddograph!!! It's great alot better then a gundam marker!
EDIT: I forgot that they don't ship these pens to America anymore, So they might be hard to find. =( Just try using thinned paint!! and cotton swabs, if you can't find a replacement pen.
EDIT: I forgot that they don't ship these pens to America anymore, So they might be hard to find. =( Just try using thinned paint!! and cotton swabs, if you can't find a replacement pen.
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- Fritz Ashlyn
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If you have a steady hand and patience, I once used an ultra-fine Sharpie on a MG kit.
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For better or for worse I use microns. Theyre fine pens that come in a variety of sizes and colors. However they smear like crazy and the finest (.005) dosnt last long sometimes. But they do work and if you make a mistake its very easy to remove it, plus if you give them a bit of time to dry then wipe the parts with a cloth or paper towel they sink well into the panel lines.
Last edited by Xanatos11 on Tue Mar 27, 2007 10:58 am, edited 1 time in total.
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- artmaster079
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Before I discovered an anime store in Orlando, I always used Ultra Fine point Sharpie's on my models. I just used an eraser on it afterwards and it was fine.
If you can find a hobby store/ comic book store or an anime-centered store (yeah, i realize how hard that must be,) they may still be able to order Gundam markers for you
If you can find a hobby store/ comic book store or an anime-centered store (yeah, i realize how hard that must be,) they may still be able to order Gundam markers for you
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Ultra Fine Point Sharpie's? Aren't their tips still a little 'thick', even though they consider it 'ultra fine'? I tried using 'em on my NG Gunner Zaku, and it ended up being messy. So, any tips on how to proper utilize these pens?artmaster079 wrote:Before I discovered an anime store in Orlando, I always used Ultra Fine point Sharpie's on my models. I just used an eraser on it afterwards and it was fine.
If you can find a hobby store/ comic book store or an anime-centered store (yeah, i realize how hard that must be,) they may still be able to order Gundam markers for you
In the past, I've used Gundam markers, Sharpies, Rapidographs (refillable and non refillable ones), .3 lead mechanical pencils, etc. And from all these, I find that the wash is easiest and more versatile for me.
So I'm curious; for you guys using pens to panel line, are you guys also painting the kits first? If so what paint type/brands are you using? I pretty much gave up on using pens and such for panel lines and gone to the method of a wash.
So I'm curious; for you guys using pens to panel line, are you guys also painting the kits first? If so what paint type/brands are you using? I pretty much gave up on using pens and such for panel lines and gone to the method of a wash.
- "Kamille! Kamille!
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I paint them then use Gundam Markers. Model Master Acryl. Sticks great, is dark, and literally dries instantly, a little tough to get off though.ulnhyrr wrote:In the past, I've used Gundam markers, Sharpies, Rapidographs (refillable and non refillable ones), .3 lead mechanical pencils, etc. And from all these, I find that the wash is easiest and more versatile for me.
So I'm curious; for you guys using pens to panel line, are you guys also painting the kits first? If so what paint type/brands are you using? I pretty much gave up on using pens and such for panel lines and gone to the method of a wash.
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If you're using paints on your model already, a simple way to add panel lines is with a colour wash.
thin down some paint till it has a very thin consistency ( consistency of milk or thinner).
Now, load your brush, and touch it to the area with the panel line. Capillary action will draw the paint out of the brush into the corners of the panel line indentation, and the rest can be simply run over with the brush.
once that's done, use some kitchen towel or toilet roll to mop up any overspill on the panelling, and leave to dry.
for best results, try to use a suitable colour for the colour you're working against. For red use a light grey, for black, use a dark grey or a navy blue, for dark blue, use black or dark grey, for light blue, a light grey or a darker blue, for white, try a navy blue, dark grey or Black (Black can seem too sharp against white; if so, try navy blue for less contrast)
thin down some paint till it has a very thin consistency ( consistency of milk or thinner).
Now, load your brush, and touch it to the area with the panel line. Capillary action will draw the paint out of the brush into the corners of the panel line indentation, and the rest can be simply run over with the brush.
once that's done, use some kitchen towel or toilet roll to mop up any overspill on the panelling, and leave to dry.
for best results, try to use a suitable colour for the colour you're working against. For red use a light grey, for black, use a dark grey or a navy blue, for dark blue, use black or dark grey, for light blue, a light grey or a darker blue, for white, try a navy blue, dark grey or Black (Black can seem too sharp against white; if so, try navy blue for less contrast)
Addendum to what was posted above is two rules that will make it much easier:
1: Gloss coat first.
2: Make sure the wash solution is a different paint type and weaker paint type than the type of the gloss coat. (For acrylic gloss coat, use enamel paint as the wash; for lacquer gloss coat, use enamel or acrylic paint for the wash; for enamel gloss coat, use acrylic paint as the wash)
My first attempts at a wash failed miserably because I didn't follow the above rules.
1: Gloss coat first.
2: Make sure the wash solution is a different paint type and weaker paint type than the type of the gloss coat. (For acrylic gloss coat, use enamel paint as the wash; for lacquer gloss coat, use enamel or acrylic paint for the wash; for enamel gloss coat, use acrylic paint as the wash)
My first attempts at a wash failed miserably because I didn't follow the above rules.
- neolordmaxwell
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- "Kamille! Kamille!
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This is a very good idea...Asuka wrote:I find that putting the panel lines down first and then painting over them helps to blend the colors as opposed to trying to match the colors.
As you paint over the black panel lines it will darken the panel lines but still have the same color as the panels themselves.
Isn't that just what a marker is for? It's like a harder brush that's easier to control...neolordmaxwell wrote:I use a very fine brush and manually paint all of my lines on. It's a technique not for the faint hearted and I've been perfecting it over the course of six years. But for me it's the only way I'll do it. I feel that it allows me to controll exactly what I want the line to do.
- neolordmaxwell
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[quote=""Kamille! Kamille!"]Isn't that just what a marker is for? It's like a harder brush that's easier to control...[/quote]
I've found that it's the stiffness that makes markers more difficult to use for really fine detail. A brush is soft so you can get the tip in places no marker can travel. It takes more care and effort, but it's a far more versitile tool. It ends up accomplishing much the same results as a highly controlled wash. Not for everyone, but I'll swear by the results.
I've found that it's the stiffness that makes markers more difficult to use for really fine detail. A brush is soft so you can get the tip in places no marker can travel. It takes more care and effort, but it's a far more versitile tool. It ends up accomplishing much the same results as a highly controlled wash. Not for everyone, but I'll swear by the results.
- wraith1701
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Hi. This looked like a pretty interesting topic, so I thought that I'd chime in.
I agree with stormturmoil and ulnhyrr; a wash is the best way to go. I've had bad experiences with Gundam Markers.
I like to finish my kits with a semi-gloss spray coat to seal the color and protect the paint job, and every time, the spray-on coat has caused the marker to bleed, resulting in fuzzy, undefined panel lines. I always get the best results by using a scriber or hobby blade to lightly deepen the panel lines, then use acrylics for the paint job. After that, I apply a light coat of gloss. Once this dries, I do a wash with dark gray or black acrylic paint watered down with tap water. Capillary action helps the panel lines fill themselves, and any spillover is easily dabbed up or wiped off with a cloth. Once the wash dries, I apply a final coat of semi-gloss or flat, depending on how shiny or dull I want the model to look.
I agree with stormturmoil and ulnhyrr; a wash is the best way to go. I've had bad experiences with Gundam Markers.
I like to finish my kits with a semi-gloss spray coat to seal the color and protect the paint job, and every time, the spray-on coat has caused the marker to bleed, resulting in fuzzy, undefined panel lines. I always get the best results by using a scriber or hobby blade to lightly deepen the panel lines, then use acrylics for the paint job. After that, I apply a light coat of gloss. Once this dries, I do a wash with dark gray or black acrylic paint watered down with tap water. Capillary action helps the panel lines fill themselves, and any spillover is easily dabbed up or wiped off with a cloth. Once the wash dries, I apply a final coat of semi-gloss or flat, depending on how shiny or dull I want the model to look.
- Hi_Nu_Gundam
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I ve always wondered about these gundam markers are they really worth it?
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