Modeling Tips/Techniques/Help links

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MarkW
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Post by MarkW » Wed Dec 31, 2008 12:55 pm

If you are just needing the screwdriver, there really isn't anything special about them--a jewelers screwdriver set or electronics/computer repair screwdriver set http://www.cross-mark.com/screwdriver-e ... -1454.html with cross (philips) head drivers will work.

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Post by Yardly » Sun Feb 22, 2009 2:27 am

What is the best way to panel line a plated kit? I tested a gundam marker on one of the 1/100th Akatsuki's runners and the results were not exactly desirable. I was looking into panel line washes, but I wasn't sure if the gloss coat would achieve the same results on a plated kit versus a normal kit. Is the panel line wash the way to go, or is there a better way?

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Post by MarkW » Sun Feb 22, 2009 3:56 pm

Google "sludge wash" should be exactly what you need.

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Re: Modeling Tips/Techniques/Help links

Post by Momaru » Thu Apr 30, 2009 3:06 pm

Does anyone know where I can get custom thruster cones like the ones this guy uses?
http://www.geocities.jp/a2crafts/hin1.htm
Also, does anyone know how this guy adds all those extra pannel lines? Thanks.
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Re: Modeling Tips/Techniques/Help links

Post by SNT1 » Thu Apr 30, 2009 5:44 pm

^ http://akohobby.com and http://mechaskunk.com offers those thrusters if you're intent of making your Gundam the equivalent of a riced-out Honda fart machine :P

Thos panel lines are most likely scribed, using a scriber maybe.
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Re: Modeling Tips/Techniques/Help links

Post by Momaru » Fri May 01, 2009 2:10 pm

SNT1 wrote:^ http://akohobby.com and http://mechaskunk.com offers those thrusters if you're intent of making your Gundam the equivalent of a riced-out Honda fart machine :P

Thos panel lines are most likely scribed, using a scriber maybe.
Yeah I don't intend to use any of the big thrusters because they are a bit too "street" and make the gundam look tricked out in a bad way. The small ones should be good for adding a bit of detail though. Yep, those panel lines are indeed scribed. I kinda want to try my hand at that too. *pulls out his crappy FG sword Strike to experiment on*
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Re: Modeling Tips/Techniques/Help links

Post by MarkW » Fri May 01, 2009 8:13 pm

There's nothing wrong with using metal thrusters, even large ones, as long as you paint them. In real life, metal objects wouldn't be that sort of shiny, and leaving them unpainted screams "TOY!!". That is probably the single biggest detractor from otherwise well done kits--unpainted metal.

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Re: Modeling Tips/Techniques/Help links

Post by SNT1 » Fri May 01, 2009 10:48 pm

Nah, it's the shape of some of the rocket thruster altogether. Especially the unpainted cylindrical ones that really do look like coffee-can fart exhaust...

btw, it's http://akocreation.com , not akohobby like I posted above.
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Re: Modeling Tips/Techniques/Help links

Post by MarkW » Fri May 01, 2009 10:53 pm

The coffe cans don't bother me near as much as the ones with the IC pin stuck in the middle. Those just scream "I'm retarded, and don't know jack squat about rockets".

Either way, unpainted = toy.

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Re: Modeling Tips/Techniques/Help links

Post by Meteoid » Tue May 19, 2009 6:19 pm

I've just bought a 1/100 Exia and i'm gonna paint and decal it. I just need some tips since I want to change the colour scheme. Everything will be a darker shade, except the white. So it will be more Navy, Maroon and Gold instead of Blue Red and Yellow. Anywho, if I spray the parts should I spray them on the runners or cut them off first and will I need a primer/finisher and is there a way to get a matte effect on the paint.

Second is the Decals, I also got a set of water-slide decals to use on it, so should I apply them after a finisher (assuming I use one) or before and what is the best way to apply them to uneven surfaces.
Also these are the decals I bought, where do you think I should put them? Just to give me some Ideas.

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Re: Modeling Tips/Techniques/Help links

Post by MarkW » Tue May 19, 2009 9:53 pm

There are a number of websites that cover basic assembly techniques--Hobbyfanatics or Gamerabaenre's website can help out a lot.

For your specific case, I'd try to assemble it as much as possible before painting. You can paint on the sprues, but then you end up with scarring where you cut the parts off.

As for finishing, it is best to gloss coat before putting on decals, otherwise you risk them getting air bubbles underneath. After that, you can panel line and put on the finishing coat, gloss or flat. For a darker color scheme flat may be best.

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Re: Modeling Tips/Techniques/Help links

Post by Denise17 » Fri May 22, 2009 1:56 am

lalahsghost wrote:This is where quality links to sites and information on modeling techniques, tips, or building-helpsites will be listed. If you have any articles you have created yourself, as long as they are detailed, and follow the guideline for describing it, feel welcome to post those too.

Follow this guideline:

Try to include:
Genre Title ex:"airbrushing, painting, puttying, sanding, etc
Site URL,
Title of site,
Brief info on what the site is about or does, Does it require registration, or any other specifics of that sort.


I'm not expecting all of that data to be in THAT SPECIFIC ORDER, but do more than just post a link and say 'thats a good site'
I am very glad that I have read your post. This really helps me to solve my problem.
Hoping that you will not stop posting useful information like this.



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Re: Modeling Tips/Techniques/Help links

Post by RandomGuy » Tue May 26, 2009 1:11 am

Does anyone know of an acceptable alternative to Future available in Japan? I came across one website that claims it's available under the name "Johnson's Wipe & Shine", though this appears to be the name used in the Philippines, not in Japan.

There is something similar here, called "Pledge Floor Wax", but I'm not really sure if it's the same thing or not; the site lists it as for use with wooden flooring, "cushion floors" or "vinyl tile" (linoleum?), and its ingredients as wax, "artificial resin" (some kind of plastic?), and water. There's also a similar product called "All", made by Rinrei, which appears similar, but I really have no idea about its properties.

Any help would be appreciated.

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Re: Modeling Tips/Techniques/Help links

Post by Deus EpS Machina » Wed May 27, 2009 2:06 am

Im not sure about Japanese alternatives to Future but iv come across many similar products for use with waxing your car. I iwas looking for a wax for my car when i bought one by Turtle Wax called ICE Liquid Polish. I used it one my car and i noticed its the exact same product that Future was so i think you may be able to get the same results. I am not sure however as i havnt tried this here nor do i know how it will fair if you add/mix it with Tamiya's Flat Base but at the very least it should provide a Future-like top coat if you choose to try it.

Whether or not you can get this there i dont know but perhaps you should/could look for similar products in automotive detailing/care or household cleaners namely floor clear polishes. If youve never used Future before i can tell you its a sorta hazy liquid with about the same viscosity as water. Also beware that Future (from what i can gather of it) is simply a clear acyrlic 'paint' i think. Its on the bottle 'acrylic coating' so that should give you a hint as to what youre looking for. And im not sure how you want to use this but i assume youre going to spray this via an airbrush but i suggest you experiment with some really cheap airbrush or one you dont mind getting messed up because i know you can run Future directly from the bottle (done it) without thinning but the same may not be the case for whatever alternative you find.
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Re: Modeling Tips/Techniques/Help links

Post by RandomGuy » Wed May 27, 2009 2:33 am

Thanks for the advice.

By all appearances, the Pledge stuff looks to be the same product as in North America: the application and recommendations are all pretty much the same. (Even the price is roughly at par, about ¥550 at the local home center.) I suppose rather than risk ruining the MG kit I paid good money for, I could grab an HGUC Gundam and experiment on that first. In fact, I think that's what I'll do.

So... wish me luck?

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Re: Modeling Tips/Techniques/Help links

Post by MarkW » Wed May 27, 2009 7:40 am

Pledge with Future Shine is the new bottling of Future. Also known as Kleer in Britain and the Commonwealth. I'd do the sniff test--Future has a distinctive odor.

Also see is water/window cleaner thin it. If it clumps in water, it ain't Future!

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Re: Modeling Tips/Techniques/Help links

Post by RandomGuy » Fri May 29, 2009 1:17 am

After a bit more searching, I've discovered that Japanese model-builders seem to use Rinrei's All floor wax for the same purposes as Future in North America, so I've duly purchased a bottle of such in order to put it to the test. Hopefully it works...

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Re: Modeling Tips/Techniques/Help links

Post by Deus EpS Machina » Sun Jul 19, 2009 1:03 am

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ninjascien ... 332177259/
this is an old trick and the pages in the link have been highlighted many times but its one of the best ways to do decent gunpla without all the tedious work that goes along with it. Great for starters...only problem is that modelling grade top coats like from Tamiya are no longer being exported from Japan (banned by the Japanese).
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Re: Modeling Tips/Techniques/Help links

Post by MarkW » Sun Jul 19, 2009 8:52 am

Fortunately, Testors sells gloss and flat coat. Krylon also has a line of flat, semi, and gloss clear coats that are perfectly fine (not sure what "model grade" :?: means, other than tiny cans of the same stuff at 3X the cost!). If you do go with Krylon or other large sparaycans, you just gotta be careful in applying the coats--they can dump a lot of paint real fast.

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Re: Modeling Tips/Techniques/Help links

Post by Derringer » Sun Jul 19, 2009 1:29 pm

Deus EpS Machina wrote:http://www.flickr.com/photos/ninjascien ... 332177259/
this is an old trick and the pages in the link have been highlighted many times but its one of the best ways to do decent gunpla without all the tedious work that goes along with it. Great for starters...only problem is that modelling grade top coats like from Tamiya are no longer being exported from Japan (banned by the Japanese).
I never quite understood how that saved anyone from doing tedious work. You do all the same steps, except instead of applying paint before the top coat, you have to sand EVERY single surface.

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